Seared Monkfish Lyonnaise

Chef's elaboration

This works because monkfish behaves more like veal than flaky fish: it loves hard searing and a short rest. The crushed potatoes catch the buttery juices better than a smooth mash ever will. Dijon, wine, and lemon give the sauce backbone, while tarragon does the classic French job of making rich fish taste sharper, not heavier.

Technique spotlight

The make-or-break move is reducing the wine until nearly syrupy before the stock goes in. If you stop early, the sauce tastes thin and boozy no matter how much butter you add. Also, mount the final butter off the heat or on the lowest flame. You want a glossy emulsion, not a greasy split pan sauce. With monkfish, color equals flavor, so do not move it too soon.

Pairing notes

Drink Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine sur lie, cold, not icy. It has the saline snap this fish wants. If you want beer, a clean French pils works better than anything hoppy. Non-alcoholic: chilled sparkling water with a heavy squeeze of lemon and a bruised tarragon sprig.

Storage notes

Monkfish reheats better than delicate white fish, but this dish is still best fresh. Refrigerate leftovers up to 2 days. Reheat the potatoes with a splash of stock, and warm the fish gently in a covered pan, not the microwave if you can avoid it. The sauce may loosen or split, so whisk in a nub of cold butter to bring it back.

Chef's critique

Most home cooks either baby the monkfish and get pallid rubber, or blast garlic in the pan and make the sauce bitter. Dry the fish aggressively, sear it hard, then lower the heat before the aromatics go in. Also, do not puree the potatoes into glue.

Suggestions

I truss monkfish tails if they taper badly, otherwise the thin end overcooks before the thick end is ready. If the fish is very lean, I salt it 15 minutes ahead, not longer. For the potatoes, warm a splash of stock into them, not milk. Milk dulls the flavor here. A few capers in the sauce are excellent if you want more bite.

Ingredients

• 360 g Monkfish Fillets
• 500 g Yukon Gold Potatoes
• 70 g Unsalted Butter
• 2 tbsp Olive Oil
• 2 pcs Garlic
• 120 ml Dry White Wine
• 120 ml Chicken Stock
• 2 tsp Dijon Mustard
• 8 g Tarragon
• 10 g Parsley
• 1 pcs Lemon
• 1.3333333333333333 tbsp Kosher Salt
• 1 tsp Black Pepper
• 1 pcs Shallot

Method

1. Peel and cut {yukon_gold_potatoes} into large chunks. Finely dice {shallot}, mince {garlic}, finely chop {tarragon} and {parsley}, and halve {lemon}. Pat {monkfish_fillets} very dry so they sear deeply instead of steaming, then season all over with {kosher_salt} and {black_pepper}.
2. Place {yukon_gold_potatoes} in a saucepan, cover with cold water, add {kosher_salt}, and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce to a lively simmer and cook until the centers are tender and the edges look slightly shaggy.
3. Drain {yukon_gold_potatoes}, then crush them with {unsalted_butter}, {olive_oil}, and a pinch of {kosher_salt} until rustic and creamy with a few chunks for texture. Cover to keep warm.
4. Heat {olive_oil} in a heavy skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering. Lay in {monkfish_fillets} presentation side down without crowding and sear until deeply golden and the sides turn opaque. Flip, add a little {unsalted_butter}, and cook until an instant-read thermometer in the center reads about 135°F. Transfer to a warm plate to rest briefly so the juices settle.
5. Lower to medium heat in the same skillet and add {shallot} with a small pinch of {kosher_salt}. Sweat until softened, then add {garlic} and cook until fragrant. Stir in {dijon_mustard}, deglaze with {dry_white_wine}, and reduce until nearly syrupy so the alcohol cooks off and the fond concentrates. Add {chicken_stock}, simmer until lightly thickened, then whisk in cold {unsalted_butter}. Finish with {tarragon}, {parsley}, a squeeze of {lemon}, and a few grinds of {black_pepper}; taste and adjust with {kosher_salt}.
6. Spoon {yukon_gold_potatoes} onto warm plates, set {monkfish_fillets} on top, and spoon over the {tarragon} pan sauce. Finish with a final squeeze of {lemon} for brightness and serve at once while the fish is hot and the sauce is glossy.